by Andy DeShong

Whether you wear them to correct vision problems, protect your eyes from sunlight or to disguise yourself, sunglasses are a surefire way to change the way you look. Choose the right size, shape and color and they will not only serve the purpose of protection and correction, but bring out your inner celebrity look. Choose the wrong one and you could look, well, like a stereotypical dork.

Sunglasses have a very practical purpose. They are not just fashion statements. Sunlight damages the eyes and the damage is cumulative. It should be stated for those who don’t know that UV-A and UV-B rays cause cataracts and macular degeneration — a leading cause of blindness in older people.

According to the American Academy of Ophthalmology, inexpensive drugstore shades are as likely to give you the same quality of protection as designer brands. To be effective, lenses should block both UVA and UVB rays.

Sunglasses should transmit only 15 to 35% of the available light. If you can see your eyes through the lenses in a mirror, they may be too light. If you wear contacts, use sunglasses as well; contact lenses that claim to be UV-absorbing have not yet been proven to do so.

Glasses should fit close to your face with lenses large enough to cover the entire eye area. Wrap-around lenses give extra protection.
Optically precise and distortion-free lenses help prevent eyestrain and fatigue. Don’t take it for granted that high prices mean good optical clarity. A simple check is to turn your head while looking through the glasses at a pole or a tree — a pole that appears to waver indicates a minor distortion.

Different Types Of Lenses And Coatings:

Plastic lenses are popular as they are lighter, thinner and more impact resistant than glass. However, they scratch easily.

Glass lenses are thicker, heavier and more fragile. But they provide the clearest vision and are more scratch resistant.

Aspheric lenses are lightweight and thin. So if you have thick glasses, these will make a big difference.

Photo-chromatic lenses automatically change from light to dark in bright light, which is convenient for people who can’t switch from regular glasses to sunglasses. But they don’t turn as dark as sunglasses inside a car, since the windshield blocks some of the light rays that make them darken. They may also turn darker indoors than you really want them to.

Polarized lenses minimize glare by filtering horizontal light. They do not protect against UV rays, unless specially coated.

Anti-reflective coating can reduce reflected glare and blurred images which is useful for night driving, but the lenses are difficult to keep clean.

Mirror-coated lens have a thin metallic coating that reflects light away from your eyes but they won’t give you full UV protection.

Scratch resist coatings are available and highly recommended for plastic lenses.

Tints: How And Why To Choose Them

Tints add color to your face and help to hide the wrinkles and dark circles under the eyes. Darker lenses do not mean better protection! Very dark lenses can reduce clarity, make the pupils dilate and let in even more ultra violet light.

A tint with 50% transparency is adequate for all day wear for sun protection. For bright light situations, an 80% tint provides maximum protection.

Lenses with “gradient tint” have a full tint at the top, which fades gradually to no tint at all at the bottom. Driving glasses are often graded so you can see the dashboard clearly.

“Double gradient tint” lenses will have full tint at the top as well as the bottom of the lens, but with a medium tint in between. They are popular with skiers because the lenses cut glare from the sun above and the snow below, but allow for a clear view through the centre.

Colors – What They Mean And Do:

The color of the tint will absorb some parts of the light spectrum and this can help to make an object, like a ball, stand out clearer; or de-emphasize the background for better contrast.

Lenses should either be the same color as the object you need to focus on; or be from the opposite end of the color spectrum to get maximum contrast. For Baseball, rose lenses will filter out the green field, while orange will make the ball stand out against the blue sky. For tennis, yellow lenses will allow you to see the yellow ball better.

Gray is a good tint for daily wear. It will reduce brightness, but let colors stay true. Gray lenses cut glare and are excellent for driving. This is the best tint for people with color blindness.

Brown, amber and gold are excellent for general use. They block “blue light”; i.e., the near UV spectrum rays that are also not good for your eyes, but still allow the widest range of safe rays in the spectrum to reach your eyes.

Brown lenses suit activities that require constant distance perception, like in tennis or skiing. They are good for activities in lower light situations like early morning or evening and can help golfers distinguish a white golf ball better against the green.

Yellow tints cut off blue light and make things seem clearer and sharper. Blue light tends to scatter the most; which creates a kind of “blue glare”. Snow reflects a lot of blue light which is why snow lenses are yellow. Yellow also suits low light conditions, but you should remember that this tint distorts colors and is not suitable for any activity that requires accurate color perception.

Green tints offer the best color contrast and visual clarity since they let through high levels of yellow-green light to which the eye is the most responsive. However, green is not suitable for people with red-green color blindness.

Purple and rose tints will give you the best contrast for objects against a green or blue background and are suitable for hunting or water skiing.

Rose tints give best contrast as well as low-light image resolution.

Blue tints are the best ones to avoid! Blue enhances blue light which not only creates more glare, but is also thought to damage the eyes.

Choosing The Right Fit And Shape For Your Face

Your spectacle frames can make you look fun, funky, classic, sexy, intellectual or individual… It only requires careful choosing to get the perfect fit for your face to give you the image you wish to project.

Frames:

Modern frames come in a huge range of colors and shapes and are usually made of plastics or metals.

Plastic frames are colorful and durable. Most plastic frames are made of cellulose acetate or propionate. Other options like Nylon are suitable for people with allergies.

Metal frames usually have a nickel-silver core which is coated on the exterior with other materials. Stainless steel and titanium frames are available for those who are allergic. Titanium frames are also extremely light, but they need to be 100% titanium to be hypo allergenic.

If your frames tend to distort easily, try special materials like Flexon which have a “memory” that helps them retain their shape.

Fit:

Frames should cover your eyebrows and pupils should be centered at the middle of the lenses where vision is the clearest.

The bridge or the nosepiece supports most of the weight of the glasses and should sit evenly and lightly on your nose.

The temples or the side pieces of your glasses should go behind your ears comfortably without obstructing peripheral vision. Comfort cables can hook behind the ear to keep your glasses in place during strenuous activity. Library temples extend straight back and are held in place by pressure, which makes it easier to slip them on and off.

Color Co-ordination:

The color of your frame should suit your skin tone. Cool complexions have undertones of pink and blue and can carry off magenta, black, pink, blue, beige and silver.

Warm complexions have a yellow base. Earthy and autumn colors like brown, gold, maroon, peach, orange and khaki will go well with them.

Selecting A Frame To Suit Your Face:

Your frame’s shape should balance that of your face. Generally, contrasting shapes off set each other well. Pull your hair back and take a good look in the mirror to judge your face shape. Often, faces have a combination of shapes; so trial and error and a second opinion is the most reliable way to a good choice. Here’s a general guide to point the way!

1. Square Face: Has a wide forehead, broad jaw line and a square chin. The face is usually as broad as it is long.

* Choose: Round or oval frames will soften the jaw and add length to the face. The frame should have more horizontal depth than vertical and be wider than the broadest part of the face. Some weight on the top and temples set at the top of the frame will draw attention away from the jaw.

* Avoid: square, narrow styles and ones that emphasize the bottom rim.

2. Round Face: Fairly short with few angles; broad forehead, full cheeks and rounded chin. The breadth and width of the face will be equal.

* Choose: Angular, upswept styles with color or decoration at the temples to draw attention to the upper part of the face and add length. Metal frames with adjustable nose pads are ideal as they will stop lenses from pressing on the full cheeks. Frames should be wider than they are deep.

* Avoid: Overly square, round, or large frames which will add to the roundness.

3. Oval Face: Balanced and proportionate, with the forehead slightly wider than the chin, high cheek bones and small features. This is considered the ideal shape and many different styles will suit this face, so you can afford to be adventurous!

* Choose: Small geometric shapes which are in proportion to the face.

* Avoid: Low swooping temples or large styles that will unbalance or overwhelm the features.

4. Oblong Face: The length of the face is longer than it is wide with a long cheek line and nose.

* Choose: Frames that break the length of the face and give it width. Frames should have vertical depth. Try round, deep or low triangular frames. Strong horizontal lines and decorative temples will add width. A low bridge will help to shorten the nose. Curved frames will help soften the angular nature of this face.

* Avoid: Angular frames and small square shapes that emphasize the length of the face.

5. Heart Shaped Face: Broader at the forehead, tapering to a pointed chin and small mouth.

* Choose: Low triangular shapes like aviators and butterfly frames. Very light colors, rimless glasses and frames with rounded tops and squared bottoms will help to reduce the width of the top half of the face. Low temples will add balance.

* Avoid: Frames which are wider or heavier at the top.

6. Triangular Face: Comparatively narrow forehead and eye line, with a broader jaw.

* Choose: Frames with heavy detailing on the top half. Square, straight top aviators and semi-rimless glasses will help to fill out the top half of the face.

* Avoid: Low temple styles and bottom heavy or small, narrow frames.

Other Features To Consider:

1. Hair:

* For graying hair, avoid silver colored frames. Try brown toned ones instead.

* If you are balding, it makes your face look longer. A strong brow bar will draw attention away from a large forehead.

* Facial hair requires a light frame for balance. Square bottomed frames pair well with a round beard.

* Thick eyebrows require thin frames.

2. Eyes:

* A thick or dark bridge will draw widely spaced eyes closer together. For close set eyes, using a thin, clear bridge will make them seem wider.

3. Nose:

* A low set bridge will make a long nose look shorter, while high temples draw the eye up and away from the nose. A high bridge will make a short nose look longer.

Caring For Your Shades:

Do:

Use both hands to hold the temples, mid way on either side, when you put on or remove your glasses. This will keep them aligned and in shape for longer.

Moisten eye glasses before wiping clean. Warm running water and a drop of mild liquid soap will help remove surface dirt and smears. Wipe dry with a soft paper towel. Spray cleansers are also available at eye care stores.

Use Micro-fiber cloth for wiping. It traps dust and lifts it from the lens. Be careful to machine wash the cloth weekly to remove the dust it holds, or it will scratch your lenses. Do not use any fabric conditioners or softeners while cleaning micro-fiber cloth since it leaves residues.

Ask your optician to apply a special fixing solution on the tiny screws in the frames to keep them from falling out.

Keep glasses inside their protective case when not in use so they do not get scratched, bent, or crushed.

Don’t!

Never use household cleansing agents like alcohol, ammonia, acetone, harsh detergents and such to clean your frames or lenses.

The chlorine in swimming pool water could ruin your glasses.

Never wipe your glasses when they are dry.

Excessive heat will damage both your lenses as well as the frame, so leaving your glasses on the dash board or in the glove compartment of your car is a big no, no!

For more great tips and advice on style and fashion visit The Executives Closet

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3. The Scent of a Man

by Andy DeShong

The Art Of Smelling As Good As You Possibly Can

After a shower and a shave, the next step in grooming is making sure you smell good throughout your day. The right scent in the right amount can make a big difference in how you are perceived in the business and social world. Over do it and you can send executives sneezing down the hall!

The Different Types Of Fragrances:

Fragrances are classified according to the proportion of oil and alcohol they contain. Perfumed Oil is dissolved in the alcohol that helps dissipate the scent onto the skin. Body heat releases the scent once it is sprayed on.

Parfum or Perfume is the strongest with 15 to 30% of fragrance oil.

Eau de Parfum has 8 to 15% of fragrance oil and is more common in women’s cosmetics.

Cologne or Eau de Cologne has 4 to 8% oil. Men’s cologne is more concentrated than women’s. It’s great for the body, but not so good for the face. On the face, you’ll get that old fashioned burning sensation because the oil irritates your skin. The smell of cologne lasts longer than other fragrance- about three hours.

Eau de Toilette or Toilet Water (not the kind your dog drinks!) has a lower proportion of oil 2 – 5 % than cologne. For men’s fragrances now, the concentration is almost the same as cologne. The name Eau de Toilette is used more often in Europe. In women’s fragrances there is a BIG difference — Eau de Toilette has more oil than Eau de Cologne.

After-Shave has a low amount of fragrance oil (1 to 3%) and works best on your face for soothing and toning; but the alcohol can be drying. The alcohol helps to de-grease the face, kill bacteria, close the pores and prevent irritation. There may be an astringent to help heal small nicks. It still tends to sting and dry out a freshly shaved face. The smell of after-shave lasts only an hour or two.

After-Shave Balm has moisturizers in cream or lotion form with little or no alcohol; so it’s not irritating. Moisturizers are liquid or cream based emollients that provide a protective film over your skin to keep the natural moisture from evaporating. Shaving and hot showers can dry your skin of the natural oils, so you really need a moisturizer. You can also use a sunscreen lotion with a high SPF (sun protection factor) instead of after-shave. It soothes your face and protects it from the sun.

Talc is a scented powder that removes facial shine after shaving and also helps prevent chafing.

Fragrances fall into different scent categories depending on their ingredients and over all smell. The most popular types are:
Citrus, Green, Floral, Oriental (or spicy), Chypre (or woodsy-mossy, Fougere (or fern-like) and Lavender.

How Fragrances Work:-

Each fragrance is like a three act play. There are three “notes” or scents that come through at different times.

* The top note (the lightest scent) appears immediately after application and disappears within 5 or 10 minutes.

* The middle note or heart develops after 10 to 15 minutes, and last for about an hour.

* The base or bottom note takes about 45 minutes to develop and lasts for several hours.

The length of time a fragrance lasts depends on your skin. Dry skin loses fragrance quickly, while oily skin will hold fragrance much longer.

Fragrances react with your skin’s pH level so the same brand will smell completely different on different people.

How To Shop For Your Fragrance:

Go to the men’s fragrance counter in your local Department Store or the aisle at the drug store. Spray a few samples in the air or on those little cards (called blotter cards) provided. The cards will not substitute for your skin; they’re just to narrow down the search.

* Choose one or two that appeal to you, not more.

* Spray the chosen one on your wrist (if two, choice #2 goes on the other wrist).

* Smell it – that’s the “top note”.

* Wait 8 to 10 minutes, and smell again, that’s the “middle note”.

* Walk around – go buy a shirt.

* Smell again after 30 to 45 minutes and the “base note” will be apparent. This is how you will smell for the rest of the day.

Andy’s Advice: Be aware that your nose gives up after three or four smells as part of the body’s self-protection. Receptors in the nose become numb after exposure to strong odors. If you do need to test more than two scents, smell a couple of coffee beans in between — It clears your nose immediately. Take some with you, or stop for an espresso. If they don’t have espresso just have them bring you a regular cup of coffee, really fast!

How to wear fragrance:

Your nose is still asleep when you wake up in the morning. It also becomes oblivious to a smell quickly; so resist the urge to overdo it.

Scent rises, so apply cologne to pulse points on your lower body like your chest or lower.

Heat releases the scent. Pulse points are the where the blood comes closest to the skin and warms the area, such as your wrists, neck, base of the throat and behind the ears. The heat generated by your blood flow at these points will intensify the fragrance.

Don’t mix fragrances. Try to use the same brand and fragrance for deodorant, cologne, etc or stick to odor free hair and deodorant products.

Layering different products of the same fragrance — like body wash, aftershave and cologne, will give you better results that last longer.

Don’t overwhelm your coworkers. It may be best not to wear fragrance (except deodorant) to work. You can avoid cologne during the daytime. Saving it just for evenings also saves money.

Spray — you’ll use less and control the application better. A spray is easier to use; it doesn’t drip down your arm and onto your clothes. With the splash-on, you have to open the cap. Over time this lets the alcohol evaporate, which lowers the shelf life.

With the splash type bottle there is a tendency to touch the open bottle to your skin. The skin has natural bacteria which backwashes into the bottle and contaminates your cologne. So a spray will last longer.

An effective method of application is to spray the scent into the air and walk into it!

If you apply fragrance by hand, try to keep your right hand (the one you shake hands with) fragrance free.

You might want to vary fragrances between seasons. Wear a different scent in the winter than you did in the summer; or use a different aroma for daytime than the night.

Tips For Caring And Storage:

Most fragrances won’t keep after six months to one year from the date of production, not when you buy it! So make sure it’s “fresh” at the store. Clearance centers may be less expensive but they may be selling 2 or 3 year old fragrances, so it’s wise to purchase yours from reputable department and drug stores. Even then, look for boxes in plastic wrap. If they aren’t packaged in shrink-wrap, make sure the box looks new and not faded.

Fragrance is a mixture of oils and alcohol. Heat releases the scent, which is why the best places to apply are where the skin is warmest. This is also why heat and light can deteriorate your fragrance and make the oils rancid. Don’t keep those showy bottles out on your bathroom counter in direct sunlight. Keep them in the cabinet where it’s dark, cool and dry. It’s also wise, to buy the smallest bottle you can. I know you got a deal, but will you really use 64 ounces in one year?

For more great tips and advice on style and fashion visit The Executives Closet

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It is unavoidable for men grow into an age when trimming down already becomes difficult. If looking slender can be fast and easy just like changing clothes, then a man’s life can become easier. It almost sounds too good to be true.  But guess what, it is literally possible! If you think that exercising is the only way for you to look slimmer, then definitely you are wrong. Wearing the proper outfit can make you appear as though you are 10 pounds lighter!

Clothes can create illusions to the physique of the wearer.  It can give the appearance of looking thinner, but it can also give the appearance of looking heavier.   Wearing the correct clothes with the right fashion is one tested-and-proven solution to a weight problem.  In order to learn how to dress slimmer, you must know the men fashion styles to avoid and follow. The following are tips for you so that the next time you put on an outfit, you know you do not put more pounds but rather appear to lose weight.

1. Color

Choose dark colors like the all-time favorite black. Unlike bright colors, dark colors give an impression of compactness, giving the wearer a leaner figure. Other dark colors that may also be used by men are gray and navy blue.

2. Plains

It is trendily wise to wear the same solid color from top to bottom. A monochromatic color helps creates an illusion of length and prevents your body from looking fragmented.

3. Prints

Stripes. – Avoid horizontal stripes. Go for vertical stripes because they draw the eyes downwards, making you look longer and thinner. The thinner the stripes, the better.

Patterns. – Do not wear clothes with big patterns. Choose small patterns that are close to each other or overlap. Big patters create an illusion of width and could be very unflattering on a full-shaped man.

4. Fit

Wear clothes that fit you best – not too tight, not too loose. Remember than tight clothes will emphasize your bulges while loose clothes make you appear heavy and wide. Clothes will only flatter you if they fit you right.

5. Texture

Avoid fabrics that are shiny like satin. They outline the problem areas by creating darker shades on the fabric.

6. Shirts & Jackets:

Collars. - Collars that make men look fatter are those that cover the length of the neck like turtlenecks. Flattering collars scoop necklines such as v-necks and round necks. It is because an exposed neck makes your face look smaller. In this same theory, in cases of buttoned shirts, do not button the first one or two buttons from the neck.

Jackets. – Jackets can make one trimmer because it takes interest away from what’s underneath it. The trick is to choose a jacket that is single-breasted because a double-breasted jacket makes the eye focus at the center. You can choose from leaving the buttons of the jacket unfastened of fastening all even the bottom. However, when fastening the last button will noticeably pull the fabric, it must be left unbuttoned as it can emphasize your wide midpoint.

7. Pants: Jeans and Slacks

Wear mid-rise pants, one which is between high-waisted and low-waisted pants. Either high-waisted or low-waisted pants can stress your tummy bulges. Tapered pants are absolutely a no-no. If your midsection is wide, narrow-legged pants can give you an unflattering cone-shaped lower body. Lastly, keep in mind that pockets and pleats will only draw attention to your tummy while side or back zippers and flat fronts can hide the fat away.   Custom made jeans can make finding the right fit easier.

8. Accessories

Belts. – Always use a belt as it will hold your waistline and make it appear slimmer. It also helps your trouser hang properly. But be careful not to tighten the belt to much because it might outline your bulges.

Bags. – If you are uncomfortable with your belly and it seems to stick out from a side angle, you can shield it with your bag while walking or standing. Never hang a sling bag from one shoulder to the opposite side because the sling will define the curve of your belly.

In buying clothes, never fall victim to fashion trends. Accept that not every kind of design will suit you. Only buy those which can give emphasize to your plus points. The secret to dress slimmer is knowing your assets and your flaws. Once you know which to show off and which to conceal, looking good is easy. The next time you go out, keep the above tips in mind and rest assured, you will never look fat in any outfit again because you know how to dress slimmer.

Although easy as it may seem, an attempt to dress slimmer may be difficult for some especially with off the rack clothing. Another solution is to try custom made clothing.  Only a custom-made clothing can give you the perfect fit and accentuate your best parts and hide your problem areas.

Find more style advice commentary at The Executives Closet

Click here for Extreme Image Make-Over for MEN only $19.99

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3. How to Find the Perfect Jeans

The elegant, long sleeve, men’s dress shirt is back!  For several years, this must have in every well dressed gentleman’s wardrobe took a back seat to the more casual, relaxed shirt, but no more.  With a wide range of luxurious fabrics in either solids or patterns and many collar and cuff styles, the dress shirt is the frame for your face and the canvas for your jacket, necktie, braces, or pocket squares.  So, how do you choose which shirt is right for you?

We suggest you consider:

1. COLLAR STYLE:   The collar frames the face.  Therefore, the collar height and spread of collar points should complement the size and shape of your face.  Think about  it this way.  A three inch long, straight point collar will lengthen a wide face while a tab collar has height that will shorten a long neck.  The collar must fit comfortably.  How do you know?  Button the top button and then slide two fingers between your neck and the collar.  You really do need that much room because most shirts are made for minimum shrinkage.

2.  CUFFS:  Your shirt’s cuff should fit snugly around your wrist whether you choose buttons or French cuffs.   There should be enough length so that you can extend your arm in any direction without it pulling away from your wrist.   French cuffs, a staple of the European wardrobe, have long been considered a more dressy look, but are showing up today in a less formal way with the American male.  Many men see cufflinks as another way in which a man can accent his wardrobe and show his personality.

3. FABRIC: High quality fabric is a must.  The most comfortable fabric is two-ply 100 percent cotton.  A true two-ply fabric uses a vertical warp and a horizontal weft that is made of two fibers long enough to twist around each other.  The finer the yarn, the higher its thread-per-inch counts.  Two ply fabrics start at 80/2 (two represents two ply) and progresses to 220/2.  Many of these cotton fabrics are of such high quality they actually feel like silk but wear like cotton.  Fabric choices range from the smoother and more lustrous ones which are primarily found in dressier shirts to the broadcloths, oxfords, or pinpoint oxfords.

4. COLOR:   Almost every man looks good is some shade of blue so do not overlook the blues.   But do not neglect the patterned dress shirt either.  Whether you choose a blue and white-striped, a dressy mini check, or a stripe with red or gold accents there is still an air of sophistication about these patterned shirts.  Medium green stripes or green graphs on white grounds are always stylish.   There are endless possibilities of color so make several choices to compliment your suit or jacket.

5.  WORKMANSHIP:  The better dress shirts have some details of workmanship that are easily evaluated.  Begin with the side seams.  They should be single needle construction that seems to disappear in the minute lines that trace the body. The shirt should also have a button sleeve placket.  The horizontal buttonhole is proof of the attention to detail found in better shirts.

All of these criteria should help you make a wise choice.  So, choose your shirt or shirts and begin to appreciate the feel of wearing a custom made dress shirt, the compliments you will receive and the confidence of being a well dressed gentleman.

Find more style advice commentary at The Executives Closet

Click here for Extreme Image Make-Over for MEN only $19.99

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Before you leave the house in your favorite pair of jeans, stop and take a long look in the mirror. Is your backside sagging like a day-old diaper? Are your jeans so acid-washed they look like they should be in an 80′s hair band video? If the answer is yes, it’s time for some new jeans. You might be hanging on to the “old reliable” jeans because finding a new pair can be a pain. Besides, by now, they’re probably very comfortable. For some people shopping for jeans is an impossible task. The thought of going into multiple stores, trying on 20 pair of jeans, and coming home with something that isn’t quite right, is more than most people want to endure. That leads to another weekend of the “old faithful” jeans. Who cares if your look is a bit dated ? You’re comfortable. Keep reading and we will give you some ammunition to help find a great pair of jeans.

The first challenge for the jean shopper is finding the style of jeans that will look good on your body. This is where most people get stuck. They see a style that looks good on a friend and ask where they bought them, or they go try on the latest trendy jean because that is all there is in the stores. In both cases, when the jeans seeker tries them on, they are often discouraged with the results because not every style works for every body type. They have no idea what will look good on them and so they waste time and energy trying on pair after pair of bad fitting jeans. Then the jeans end up hanging at the back of the closet, not getting worn. In 2005, Americans spent more than $1.5 billion on jeans according to NPD Group, a retail research company. Sales of jeans costing $100 or more per pair increased 51% for men and 53% for women. Jeans for a lot of people are no longer just a casual clothing purchase. Education is the key to finding out what works best for your body, and the information below will help you determine the jean’s style that will work best with your body type.

BODY TYPES

Tall: depending on your figure, you have several jean styles to choose from. You could start with an extra low rise style to show off your flat tummy and slim hips. If you are looking to accentuate your long legs, then wear a high-waist jean. A wide-leg or a tapered-leg jean will look great and give you the lean line you desire. More and more companies are making jeans with a 36″ inseam for the taller person. If you find a jean that you like and they are a little too short, don’t be afraid to let the hem out. Be sure that the hem falls to the back of the heal to avoid high-waters.

Short: Are you vertically challenged? If you have shorter legs, a low-waist, wide-leg jean will elongate your legs. Finding jeans (especially for women) that don’t drag on the floor can be a big problem. If you find jeans you like and they are too long, don’t be afraid to buy them and have them hemmed. As long as the jeans are a straight leg, and not a boot cut, the can be shortened and re-hemmed with the same stitching without changing the shape of the jean. Some experienced tailors can handle the boot cut, but this is a “proceed with caution” area. Unless, you trust your tailor, stay away. In addition, if you are shorter than 5’4”, you should avoid a boot cut altogether. A boot cut may make your thighs look heavier by hugging the knees too tightly before flaring at the bottom making your legs look shorter. Finally, stay away from cuffs.

Tummy Troubles – Are you battling a bigger than desired belly and are trying to hide it? Stick with a classic dark wash for a slimming effect and go for a little stretch. Select a mid-rise jean so that the waistband lands in the middle of your tummy not above or below. Avoid distressed washes as they often draw attention to the unwanted areas. Never ever buy any jeans with pleats. Choose a five pocket style or jeans with slash pockets on the diagonal. The width of the jean leg can also create a more balanced body image, so a boot cut jean will help achieve the balance. Most people with a thicker middle typically have thinner legs; the thicker your legs, the worse a boot cut will look on you.

Big Butt – Do you have a bigger than normal bottom? The challenge in buying jeans to fit a bigger backside is finding the proper rise. Some jeans are now made with a lower rise in the front and higher in the back, which can help fit a larger backend and hide the dreaded plumber’s crack. Avoid skin tight styles and if you want to play down your backside, and stay away from any kind of flap on the pocket, or pockets with lots of embroidery as these will only call attention to the rear. Also avoid the popular vintage treatments that make the butt area look worn. Instead look for no pockets or angled pockets to help camouflage and flatten your backside. Styles with a slight flare or will balance out your larger figure.

Large hips – Are you curvy? Look for jeans with a little stretch. If the jeans are distressed, make sure they aren’t highlighting an area you want to hide. Stick with a mid rise jean that is slightly on the lower side in order to fit around the widest part without creating love handles. Go for a wider waistband and avoid a tapered leg, as this could exaggerate your curves. Go for a straight or trouser leg. These typically fall down from the hips to create a longer-looking leg line. If you go with a tapered leg, it will just exaggerate your curves. Larger hips typically mean thicker legs, and straight leg jeans help give the leg a uniform width. Stay away from the boot cut jean as these will only highlight the thickness of the thigh in relation to the knee. A helpful hint for those under 5’4″, stay away from a flared leg.

Heavy thighs – Are your thighs your problem? Pick a style that skims (but doesn’t hug) your leg. Flares and boot cuts elongate the leg and makes the ankle area appear bigger giving a better balanced leg. Avoid a peg leg jean and stretch jeans that fit skin tight. Avoid baggy jeans as these often have no shape and only make you look larger. Finally, avoid the whiskering sometimes done on jeans as it will only call attention to your thighs.

No butt – Do you want to add a little something to your backside? Look for jeans that have flap pockets that are closer together. Also, look for pockets with heavy embroidery or designs. This will accentuate your backside and give people something to look at. Jeans that have a slightly higher back pockets will also make the butt appear to be lifted.

Heavy up top – You are the lucky ones. Almost any jean will be a fit, but choose a jean that has a lighter wash, some bleaching on the leg or distressed markings. Distressed denim gives volume to the lower half without actually adding any bulk, and helps balance the overall body line.

After researching styles, body types, cuts, washes etc, we believe that custom jeans are a great option for the consume in addition to being a good value. If you want your jeans to fit perfectly, you value your time and you typically spend over $100 on jeans, then custom jeans are for you. Why? Once you determine your body style and what jeans will look good on you, then why drive to the mall (or anywhere), try on 10 different pair looking for the right fit? With custom jeans the length will be perfect, the rise will be perfect and you can be assured that your waist, bottom, hips and thighs will be covered exactly how you want them. You will get to select the denim color, fabric (stretch or not), styling, washing, stitching and pockets. You can also even have your own label. With custom jeans, the fit guess work is eliminated. Once we have you measurements, a new pair is just a few clicks away. That is value!

You are now set to go shopping. A lot of the information we have provided is to ensure that if you do buy off the rack, you will know what to look for. While we believe custom is the best solution, a well informed customer is always our goal.

Find more style advice commentary at The Executives Closet

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